gaurav wrote:Yes trojan, AC fan means Air conditioning fan which is in front of radiator. It looks non genuine because of small brackets on which its bolted.
And hell yes 40 is big temperature, and to my surprise all japanese 4x4 like cruiser, patrol and pajeros are made for this climate and never cry as i own all in past and seen MANY in desert at 48 degree too. In my case there is definitely something is not right.
And yes electric fan is good idea, that has power on demand rather than on RPM. Regarding coolant, i was also thinking same if change to coolant than water, may be this problem will get sorted. But then all my friends say that water has more cooling than coolant and if its throwing heat with water it will def throw heat with coolant too. Is it true?
So far there is no warning light i have seen its that temp gauge climbs up slowly and after touching the thermo icon top it cuts of AC, i assume at 90 - 100 degree water temp.
Dragon: Oil cooler is for A/T which is separate in my case not inside the radiator, so i dont think it will help much. I put synthetic oil just by choice as it has better heat absorbing and higher break point. But yes with that marginal money spend i def feel the difference in overall engine performance, noise, response etc.
On my swb 99 model 3.5 Pajero thinking of swapping the radiator for test with my friend pajero swb 3.0 (2000 model). Will it fit?
As an experiment i checked the radiator cap and its absolutely same and fitted nicely on each other.
Water is a better heatsink than coolant like anti-freeze with added summer coolant, but it boils quicker too. Anti-freeze with summer coolant will also thicken up when you get to a 50/50 mix and at high temperatures it will coat all the waterways with a gummy residue. What I was suggesting was HD ELC, Heavy Duty Extended Life Coolant with distilled water at a 60/40 or 50/50 mix. If you go for this, get a silicate free product. I know the US Army uses GM Dexcool in their Humvees in Kuwait as they were having heat control issues early in the recent Gulf War.
I would suggest that a good radiator flush is used prior to using a HD ELC product to remove any residue from previous Glycol based products that others may have used before you. I would also advise you cut the bars out of the grill and fit a mesh to keep bugs and stones out. Airflow, airflow, airflow is critical to keeping the temp down in your truck.
Dragon has a good point over the air filter and you may want to think about where this seperate ATF cooler is located. Under the engine and inside the bash plates is a bad idea as it too close to the desert floor to shift heat quick enough. Where Mitsubishi had the system is the best place for it, especially so because it benefits from the cooling force of the fan.
As for the radiators, a 3.0 rad from a 2000 model should fit, should fit, but you may find it doesn't if it's a different size.
